Last week, I was having an interesting conversation on Twitter involving fragrance’s many usages throughout history, and wanted to revisit the theme in a little more depth in hopes of clarifying my meaning. Here’s a closer look at the 5 Faces of Fragrance… five interesting ways in which we have made use of our mighty powers of olfaction.
Functional Face of Olfaction
The simplest (and most primal) form of olfaction. Be it a split orange, fresh baking bread, smoke from a nearby fire… one whiff and your nose magically comes to life. In milliseconds your body is reacting, as it works to figure out what the smell is and where it is emanating from. Maybe you notice food nearby and start to get hungry. Or maybe you sense danger is close and start to craft a plan of attack. These are some of the most basic and instinctual functions of scent molecules that communicate with our brains. Today the term functional has grown to also include fragrances used in formulating household cleaners and detergents. In other words, scented products that help serve a basic function in life.
Hygienic (Medicinal) Face of Olfaction
In the very first season of ABC’s hit television show, Lost, there’s a great episode involving a quest for inhalers for stranded and distressed asthmatic Shannon. As the plot unfolds, and the inhalers fail to deliver relief, the castaways turn to good old-fashioned herbalism, using eucalyptus salve to calm Shannon’s breathing. Just one of many great examples demonstrating the healing powers of scent. Whether its calming our insides, or cleansing our outsides, many of today’s medicines and hygiene therapies have roots in olfactive plant life. Over the years, this area of fragrance has also witnessed the rise of aromatherapy and spa culture. Let’s also not forget men’s grooming, though its history might suggest certain elements be categorized as Spiritual or Sensual, depending on their originally intended purpose.
Spiritual Face of Olfaction
Om. For centuries, civilizations have practiced the art of olfaction in reverence to their chosen deity (or deities). Think elaborate scent rituals meant to bring people closer to God.
Although there are many Biblical references, perhaps my favorite examples of this form of fragrance come courtesy of Ancient Egypt. The first involves life inside the temples of Egypt. In Ancient Egypt no two symbols are more revered than the lotus and papyrus, representing Upper and Lower Egypt. The lotus mentioned here, which grew along the Nile River, was also kept outside the entrances of the city temples. Upon entering, patrons would pluck a flower from the water, and imbibe in its intoxicating aroma, preparing for service. We now know these flowers possess a mild narcotic property – so a bit more trip to that trip to church. Inside the walls, incense would be burning to cleanse, consecrate, and keep away insects. Scent used to talk to God.
And then there was the process of mummification. Throughout life, the delicate bodies of Upper Class Egyptians were often robed in resin laced smoke (Perfume literally meaning from smoke), mostly for hygiene purposes. Upon death, their bodies would undergo further washing and anointing in preparation for burial. The internal organs extracted (and placed in containers inside the tomb), the vacated bodily areas were then replaced with flowers and other fragrant materials (an early example of embalming). More scent was then introduced as incense was burnt and flowers scattered throughout the chamber. The entire scent ritual was considered an important step to ensure the person safe passage into the Underworld. Each olfactive component references specific stories in Egyptian mythology.
Sensual Face of Olfaction
“Beloved, I shall return in two weeks. Do not bathe until I come back. I want you to smell the same as when I left you.” – Napoleon Bonaparte
There’s something really hot about the idea of scent for pleasure. A fragrance whose sheer goal it is to make you feel good. Unfortunately, when discussions turn to pleasure scents, inevitably someone has to mention Axe Body Sprays, a horny high schooler’s attempt at sophistication (in a can). Over the years, many commercial products have promised to increase our chances with our desired mates, but sadly none have really proven to deliver. The science of man-made pheromones still remains just a bit too fuzzy. However, do not underestimate the other sensual properties of fragrance. A quick glance through the pages of De Sade, and you’ll quickly uncover an erotic fascination with forbidden and foul aromas, each unveiled in graphic detail dressed as fantasy: a great example of scent’s importance to some forms of fetish. Or turn your nose towards India and its infamous Kama Sutra. Within this epic compendium of sexual enlightenment are many references to fragrance, including fertility rituals, aphrodisiacs, and scented body ointments.
Imagine using scent as a sensual map to guide your partner around your body, bringing them closer to you as they smell your arm, your shoulder, your neck… Feeling their breath across your skin as they soak in every newly discovered fragrant inch. As we engage our sense of smell, overall stimulation increases. We are able to capitalize on the nose’s ability to activate other parts of the body, heightening sensation through the use of fragrant “aphrodisiacs.” As an added bonus, olfaction simultaneously triggers memories and other emotional receptors in the brain, equally enhancing the effect of the shared experience. Yes, your nose may actually make you feel closer to the person you are with, just because you sniffed each other. Here, fragrance is meant to deepen the connection between all those it touches. It is sensual and intimate.
Aspirational Face of Olfaction
Over the years, I’ve heard many people talk about how fragrance makes them feel more confident. How certain perfumes have made them feel more comfortable in situations that really required their A-Game. Because of that olfactive psychological boost, these people feel personally bonded with the fragrance. A signature scent adopted for a signature moment in their lives. Welcome to the world of aspirational or lifestyle fragrances.
Whether its the classic Modernism of Chanel No. 5 or the clean, oceanic simplicity of Issey Miyake’s L’Eau D’Issey, each fragrance serves as an extension of the brand, a further way for designers to perpetuate the mythic lifestyle depicted in their respective lines. That being said, aspirational fragrances are certainly not limited to fashion designers, as they also include celebrities, beauty brands, and any others seeking to create a cult of personality through olfaction. Aspirational fragrances aim to create worlds we want to be a part of.
For me, nothing is more historically representative of an aspirational fragrance than Revlon’s Charlie. Released in 1973, this floral green chypre quickly grew into a global phenomenon: an olfactive representation of the Halston-clad women heading into the new world of corporate life. A cultural symbol of the new wave of women’s liberation. While the scent itself is enough to send me immediately back to the streets of 1970’s New York, what I think I remember most about Charlie is the ad. Picture the gorgeous Shelley Hack, facing directly to camera, shockingly wearing a pant suit and hat. The tagline: “A most original fragrance.” In keeping with that independent “Charlie girl” spirit, Revlon would later go on to cast model Naomi Sims to represent the fragrance, marking the first time an African American woman would star in a major beauty campaign. This Francis Camail masterpiece is truly a work of aspirational genius. Accessible. Universal. Unforgettable.
